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Color problem

Chandler Guild Training Ground | Candlemaking Best Practices

Some of our colors in glass containers are having white spots in them. We mix the dye in @190 and it is very well mixed. We let it cool some and then pour. When the candles cool, white specks appear. This does not happen to all of the candles but only some of them -- even though they are poured seconds apart. It also doesn't seem to matter what color it is -- red, blue, green, etc. Any ideas for how to fix?

Thanks,
Karen, Colorado

white specks

our experience has been that slower cooling helps as well as pouring slowly to minimize air bubbles. additionally, i think sometimes the specks are just more noticable in darker colors than light ones.

white spots

I was having the same problem when I was using the Nature Wax from Cargill. I don't have that problem anymore now that I use the Phytowax. Are you using liquid dye? If so, try adding the color and fragrance at 140 degrees. I let the wax cool til it gets a film on top, then heat my jars slightly in the microwave , then pour. Try this and you won't have the sink holes either.

Fosting inside jars

My experience with this phenomina is that it is not the paraffin on the wicks. I use paraffin coated wicks and no longer get this frosting. I changed my pouring temp from 180 down to 150 and solved it. I have also poured at 200 degrees without frosting. I suggest experimenting with pour temps.

Jar Spotting

At the Chandler Guild we learned that white STUFF in jars could be paraffin off of the wicks. If you are using paraffin dipped wicks that could be a possibility.
Gwen :-)

Jar spotting

Hi,

I have no idea what the problem may be. I just thought I would mention something I read which will probably mean nothing, but thought I would mention it just in case...

When you are letting your jars cool they should be about 1/2 apart.

Like I said, this will most likely not help but I thought I would tell you in the off chance it does.

Thanks for the tips!

Thanks for all the great tips. We'll do some more experimenting and see if any of the suggestions helped.

We are using the Cargill Nature Wax, soy wicks and liquid dye.

Snow Spots

Hello Karen,
Just a thought that may or may not help. Like I mentioned before, I had problems with the first box of wax that I used which was the c-1 wax from Phytowax. I contacted a friend (working with candles for 41 years in Germany, not that that makes him right, but...) he said that when you are working with any natural wax, whether it be soy, palm, beeswax, bayberry, etc., you need to allow the wax to not only melt, but keep it at the temperature that you will be using it at for at least 30 minutes before adding color and/or fragrance and pouring. If you are using any additives, they should be added before melting the wax. Because, if you are working with all natural (vegetable stearic, palm wax, etc.) they will all need to be 'cooked off'. Natural wax, apparently has components that will sometimes cause, what he calls, snow spots. And it is dealt with by slightly 'cooking off', if you will, the impurities that are causing the snow spots. Now I do not want to imply in any way that you should be boiling the wax. Just get it to the temperature that you want it to be, then allow it to stay at that temperature for at least 30 minutes. There are apparently crystilization molecules and impurities within the natural wax that need either to be 'cooked off' or blended better. If they are not, wala....snow spots. Try this and see if you notice any difference. Let me know and keep in touch.
Happy Candling!
Carol
where I combine the love of burning candles with a healthy lifestyle!

Carol & Dan
The Fort Village Chandler's
beth's soy candle co. LLC
bethssoy@ticon.net
Fort Atkinson, WI
920.568.9770

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